The Outback - Savannah Way to the Top End

another curtain fig

To experience the outback we took the road less traveled..... the Savannah Hwy. To leave the coast and the rainforest the road winds its way up to the Atherton Tablelands where you suddenly emerge from the rainforest onto a plateau .......sprawling farmland where they grow coffee, tea, peanuts, hay, sugar cane, bananas etc. They did dam a river to control the flooding and build an irrigation system that without which they probably wouldn't be able to grow half the crops that they do. Slowly this turns into endless grasslands and grazing lands leased by the ranchers. Traffic became less, braham herds became more..... sometimes on the road with us. These roads seem to be traveled by less tourists and more Australians headed for the rich fishing grounds in the north.......checkout barramundi, the fish of choice for most Australians, similar to our halibut. Or “gray nomads” as they like to call themselves......retired folks that now have time to explore their country and of course they're seeking warmer weather trying to escape the southern winter. Australians understand camping gear , we've never seen such elaborate camp set ups, that pack up so small and are so versatile. Most drive 4wds with snorkels for when they have to ford flooded roads and lets them access all the national parks......lots of dirt tracks to some incredible places..... reminds me of the north west territories. We are not driving a four wheel drive. In general Australians are very welcoming and friendly but we found the further we got into the outback the friendlier the people... it can be a very lonely place.... we had days where we met no more than five vehicles on the road. But invariably when we arrived at the roadhouse (most roadhouses have a campground attached to it) there would be lots of friendly, chatty travellers. These folks have been a great resource and of course we've invited them all to come visit us in Canada. We've also met an interesting array of international students and backpackers who find employment at these isolated roadhouses. There must be some network.... what happens is they commit to 4 months work and then continue their travels.

Termite mounds “castles” have been a constant in our travels. The construction has somewhat changed over the 2400kms but they've consistently dotted every landscape excepting the wetlands. Apparently every so often there will be an unusually wet year......like this last year was...... and the termites know when it's coming. So if the meterologists would have watched the termite mounds they would have noticed a special cap being built to prepare for the flooding...... the aboriginals knew this.

It's hard to believe how much water flows this land during the wet season but the evidence is on the trees where you can see the high water mark and on the roads and bridges that they're busy repairing and rebuilding.

three trailers full of stock

The birds continue to be a very interesting aspect. We've traveled through beautiful wetlands watched tall cranes dance away from us.....possibly a mating dance. Birds of prey that are so numerous..... eagles, hawks, falcons, kites.......because of the abundance of food. Herons, ducks and kingfishers.... different from what we're used to but identifiable all the same. Black and white cockatoos, colourful green parakoots.... but unfortunately my wildlife photography has not improved and often when you're driving by the time you stop and focus the camera the moment has passed.

The helicopter seems central to the Australian outback. There is one stationed at every roadhouse to take tourists for an arieal view of the landcape. The ranchers use them for checking on their stock and to muster their herds. We saw a lone bull being rounded up by helicopter. They use them to monitor grassland burns and wildfires. Helicopters everywhere.

We welcomed the cooler nights of the outback although the daytime temperatures still reached mid thirties now we're back to the sweltering humidty of the top end of the Northern Territory and the termite mounds have gotten even bigger and magnetic....... yes magnetic but also magnificent. In case you thought the brain was melting away. The Sometimes Lonesome Wanderers Darwin, Tuesday May 31,2011